What have I been saying, ADS/B in and out for under $1000 is possible. There is a guy with an SDR transceiver that will work everywhere 100MHz to 1000Mhz! The Whitebox SDR is being developed and has a smaller following. This SDR has it's own processor on it and can do all the modulation/demodulation on board. The bill of materials for the board is about $300, making retail under $1000 quite possible.
The name is Whitebox as opposed to blackbox because everything about it is known. The more you know the more you can do with it! The source code, schematics and board layouts are on github. Unless you have looked into SDR programming, there may not be much useful there. If you have looked at gnu radio or any of the RTL-SDR programs, this should look quite similar.
The project hasn't changed status in a little over a year, although the author has done several recent interviews on some ham radio podcasts. There was quite a bit of discussion around the 2013 Dayton Hamvention. I believe this device is pretty solid, but I don't have one yet.
Remember that UAT frequency is 978MHz, toward the top end of the limit if this device. It should be no trouble to write the code for a UAT device. The USB out from this board could easily be connected to an external computer, including a tablet.
It will take some software development to finish this project, but with a little bit of work, suddenly there would be a UAT available for under $1000.
Flying Magazine recently published an article about a portable ADS/B in/out device that is under $1500. It may not be under $1000, but it has a chance to be a popular device. The SkyGuart TWX is a portable device that listens on both 1090 and 978MHz and transmits on the 978MHz. It also has GPS receiver and WiFi for connecting to a tablet.
Are we getting close yet?
Process of building an Airplane Engine monitor. It will connect a Arduino to an Android phone or Tablet.
Saturday, January 10, 2015
Friday, December 12, 2014
Bluetooth or WiFi
Ever since I started the engine monitor project, I've had this nagging feeling in the back of my head about using Bluetooth for the engine monitor. Sure there are a lot of things that use Bluetooth for diagnostics and such on a smart phone. I rarely see anything permanently connected except car audio.
Bluetooth's biggest problem for this application comes with the idea of pairing. The only one (sometimes two) device can be paired with a tablet or phone. If you want to listen to audio from the tablet and get engine monitoring inputs to the same tablet, Bluetooth isn't the answer.
I've often thought that WiFi or USB might be a better solution. USB OTG is very common on most Android devices. OTG means the phone or tablet can be a host as well as a client. As a host, the phone can have a USB keyboard and mouse plugged in, and be useful (not portable though). Having the tablet or phone talking to the Arduino could be done for monitoring things, and using a USB hub, probably even charge while displaying engine settings.
USB's biggest drawback for this application is wire. There will need to be about 12 feet of USB cable from the front of the aircraft where the tablet would be to the back of the aircraft where the engine monitor would be (I have a Cozy that is a pusher). Putting a USB hub in the middle of the airplane would give me 2 six foot runs, but it still is inconvenient, and another point of failure.
WiFi, until recently, was a financial challenge. With Aurduino boards costing under $20 for what I want to do, and WiFi shields costing about $40 (sometimes they can be had for $30) it just didn't make sense. I am still trying to come up with a budget device that anyone can put in anything from a $10,000 homebuilt to a $500,000 production aircraft.
Recently a Chinese manufacturer has starting selling $3-5 wifi modules that will talk SPI and will run on the Arduino and other systems. The ESP8266 is available today for about $5. There are tutorials, libraries and sample applications for the Arduino. The module has an onboard processor that people are taking advantage of to make standalone projects, no Arduino required. It could be the thing that makes IoT a reality for many more consumer applications.
The module supports WiFi Direct (P2P) meaning I don't need a WiFi hub in the aircraft. The tablet or phone can talk directly with the module. If there is a hub in the aircraft, then that will work as well. It makes the whole wireless modules in the aircraft more of a reality.
I've ordered one of these modules, it may be a couple weeks before I get it. It will probably be a little while before I integrate it in the engine monitor as well. I'll keep you up to date on my progress.
Bluetooth's biggest problem for this application comes with the idea of pairing. The only one (sometimes two) device can be paired with a tablet or phone. If you want to listen to audio from the tablet and get engine monitoring inputs to the same tablet, Bluetooth isn't the answer.
USB's biggest drawback for this application is wire. There will need to be about 12 feet of USB cable from the front of the aircraft where the tablet would be to the back of the aircraft where the engine monitor would be (I have a Cozy that is a pusher). Putting a USB hub in the middle of the airplane would give me 2 six foot runs, but it still is inconvenient, and another point of failure.
WiFi, until recently, was a financial challenge. With Aurduino boards costing under $20 for what I want to do, and WiFi shields costing about $40 (sometimes they can be had for $30) it just didn't make sense. I am still trying to come up with a budget device that anyone can put in anything from a $10,000 homebuilt to a $500,000 production aircraft.
Recently a Chinese manufacturer has starting selling $3-5 wifi modules that will talk SPI and will run on the Arduino and other systems. The ESP8266 is available today for about $5. There are tutorials, libraries and sample applications for the Arduino. The module has an onboard processor that people are taking advantage of to make standalone projects, no Arduino required. It could be the thing that makes IoT a reality for many more consumer applications.
The module supports WiFi Direct (P2P) meaning I don't need a WiFi hub in the aircraft. The tablet or phone can talk directly with the module. If there is a hub in the aircraft, then that will work as well. It makes the whole wireless modules in the aircraft more of a reality.
I've ordered one of these modules, it may be a couple weeks before I get it. It will probably be a little while before I integrate it in the engine monitor as well. I'll keep you up to date on my progress.
Tuesday, December 2, 2014
I moved
I know, this blog seemed to go inactive for the past few months. I've been busy, but not specifically working on the engine monitor, but making it easier to work on it. I have a house where my family and I are all together, and it is near the airport, so I can get out to the plane to work on things when I get time. Of course setting up a house can take time, so that is what happened.
I've also upgraded phones. Still Android, I have the OnePlus that I got before they opened up buying to everyone. It seems to be a very nice phone, but I've had it less than a week, so I can't judge things too much. I tried to buy a Note4, but that process was fraught with challenges (some of it moving, some of it carrier store issues). I figure this phone ought to keep me happy for at least a year, and then I can look at the 64bit phones and see what they are like, or if I want one.
The convergence in the phones is really about to the limit. Right now the main features are battery life, camera and display. The displays are all about 1080p-450dpi. (yea, I know a comodore 64 could have 300dpi on a 1 inch screen). Yes Apple came up with "retna" as the benchmark, but it is all about what you can see and are you happy. Heck I don't really watch movies on my phone, I use the tablet to do that, so do I need 450dpi, probably not. I'd rather have longer battery life on the phone, and a good display on a tablet.
My app has about 200 downloads. I'd say users, but even I am not using it very much right now. I don't know if anyone is using it, I am not seeing any crash reports or anything. I know the code is very robust, but I would think if people were using it, they would get in some state where it would crash once in a while.
The other thing I am working on is expanding the audience of this blog. It is fun writing, I just wish someone would let me know they like my opinions or not. So far I am getting nothing, but I will hopefully add to that. I'll let you know how when things are more firm. Just let me say that there is some traditional media working.
That is probably it for now. Feedback is more than welcome, help me serve you.
I've also upgraded phones. Still Android, I have the OnePlus that I got before they opened up buying to everyone. It seems to be a very nice phone, but I've had it less than a week, so I can't judge things too much. I tried to buy a Note4, but that process was fraught with challenges (some of it moving, some of it carrier store issues). I figure this phone ought to keep me happy for at least a year, and then I can look at the 64bit phones and see what they are like, or if I want one.
The convergence in the phones is really about to the limit. Right now the main features are battery life, camera and display. The displays are all about 1080p-450dpi. (yea, I know a comodore 64 could have 300dpi on a 1 inch screen). Yes Apple came up with "retna" as the benchmark, but it is all about what you can see and are you happy. Heck I don't really watch movies on my phone, I use the tablet to do that, so do I need 450dpi, probably not. I'd rather have longer battery life on the phone, and a good display on a tablet.
My app has about 200 downloads. I'd say users, but even I am not using it very much right now. I don't know if anyone is using it, I am not seeing any crash reports or anything. I know the code is very robust, but I would think if people were using it, they would get in some state where it would crash once in a while.
The other thing I am working on is expanding the audience of this blog. It is fun writing, I just wish someone would let me know they like my opinions or not. So far I am getting nothing, but I will hopefully add to that. I'll let you know how when things are more firm. Just let me say that there is some traditional media working.
That is probably it for now. Feedback is more than welcome, help me serve you.
Sunday, August 17, 2014
Switches and Arduino
The last Arduino post I started with the analog inputs (the
potentiometer). Analog should be more complicated than digital, but they
aren't on the Arduino. Digital inputs are usually either on or off, and
that is all. Adding wire makes it more complicated.
Most switches have two states, on or off. This is digital, high or low, if you are turning on a light. There are two wires coming out of the basic switch, and a digital port is only one wire. How would one connect a switch to a single bit on a computer board? The answer is using the GND pin(s). Connect one wire to the GND pin, and the other to the digital input that is needed to be controlled.
We can write a simple sketch to monitor digital pin 2 and turn the LED on the board on and off.
There is a new constant that is used in the pinMode() function, "INPUT_PULLUP". For input pins there are two modes, simple "INPUT" and "INPUT_PULLUP". INPUT mode is just that, the input will be monitored, for whatever comes in. The pin will generally indicate "HIGH" when nothing is connected to it, but sometimes long wires can make the pin go to a low state, depending on what is around those wires.Internally the CPU chip will have a small resistor than can force the pin to always be "HIGH" unless it is connected to ground (GND). Since the one pin on the switch is connected to GND, when the button is pressed, the pin will report "LOW". Using the "PULLUP" option will make the state of the pin on the computer report the state of the button more accurately.
The loop() function is very simple. It reads the state of the button, and sets the LED to that state. The digitalRead() function only needs the pin to read as an argument, and it returns the result that can be assigned to a variable "onOff".
If this sketch is run on the Arduino, the LED will turn off when the button is pressed. This may seem reversed, most of the time, when the button is pressed the LED should light up. The state seems reversed because the button is connected to ground. When the button is pressed, it forces the voltage to 0 (GND) and the digitalRead() function will set the onOff variable to "LOW". Setting the digitalWrite for the LED pin to be "LOW". When the button is released, the pullup on the button pin will make the voltage 3V and the digitalRead() on the pin will return "HIGH" in the onOff variable.
Logic can be changed, and the LED can turn on when the button is pressed. Using an "if()/else" statement can allow the results to be reversed similar to:
if (onOff == HIGH)
digitalWrite(led, LOW);
else
digitalWrite(led, HIGH);
Remember to use the "==" when comparing values in an if() statement. This is saying if the button is returning HIGH, set the LED to LOW, otherwise set the LED to HIGH.
This logic can be expanded to including multiple sensors, causing other alerts to occur.
Using other switch types can create more flexible monitoring. A push button requires great conformance of the switch to what is being monitored. A push button requires the item being monitored must hit the switch at the right time.
Other switch types, can allow flexibility of the orientation of the switch to the item being monitored. Lever type microswitches are the most flexible. A microswitch will only operate in a narrow region of the motion. The lever can absorb a great deal of motion.Toggle switches are good in the panel of the aircraft. Toggle switches have great tactile feel, and come in a variety of designs.
It is good to wire sensor wires to GND as much as possible. Running any source voltage (IE 12V, 5V etc) will require the wire to be fused to prevent the source and the wire from being damaged. There is a fuse or circuit breaker from the panel to all devices requiring source voltage in the aircraft. This is very important to prevent fires, low voltage and other problems in the aircraft.
What do you need next?
Most switches have two states, on or off. This is digital, high or low, if you are turning on a light. There are two wires coming out of the basic switch, and a digital port is only one wire. How would one connect a switch to a single bit on a computer board? The answer is using the GND pin(s). Connect one wire to the GND pin, and the other to the digital input that is needed to be controlled.
We can write a simple sketch to monitor digital pin 2 and turn the LED on the board on and off.
/* Button Turns on an LED on when button is pressed connected to pin 2. This example code is in the public domain. */ // Pin 13 has an LED connected on most Arduino boards. // give it a name: int led = 13; // Pin 2 has a button connected externally. int button = 2; // the setup routine runs once when you press reset: void setup() { // initialize the digital pin as an output. pinMode(led, OUTPUT); pinMode(button, INPUT_PULLUP); } // the loop routine runs over and over again forever: void loop() { int onOff; onOff = digitalRead(button); // read the button state digitalWrite(led, onOff); // set the LED to the state of the button }This sketch again starts very similar to the original Blink sketch, but there is a new global variable, "button". The button is the input pin to monitor for switch state. We need to tell the Arduino that this pin is an input, in the setup() function.
There is a new constant that is used in the pinMode() function, "INPUT_PULLUP". For input pins there are two modes, simple "INPUT" and "INPUT_PULLUP". INPUT mode is just that, the input will be monitored, for whatever comes in. The pin will generally indicate "HIGH" when nothing is connected to it, but sometimes long wires can make the pin go to a low state, depending on what is around those wires.Internally the CPU chip will have a small resistor than can force the pin to always be "HIGH" unless it is connected to ground (GND). Since the one pin on the switch is connected to GND, when the button is pressed, the pin will report "LOW". Using the "PULLUP" option will make the state of the pin on the computer report the state of the button more accurately.
The loop() function is very simple. It reads the state of the button, and sets the LED to that state. The digitalRead() function only needs the pin to read as an argument, and it returns the result that can be assigned to a variable "onOff".
If this sketch is run on the Arduino, the LED will turn off when the button is pressed. This may seem reversed, most of the time, when the button is pressed the LED should light up. The state seems reversed because the button is connected to ground. When the button is pressed, it forces the voltage to 0 (GND) and the digitalRead() function will set the onOff variable to "LOW". Setting the digitalWrite for the LED pin to be "LOW". When the button is released, the pullup on the button pin will make the voltage 3V and the digitalRead() on the pin will return "HIGH" in the onOff variable.
Logic can be changed, and the LED can turn on when the button is pressed. Using an "if()/else" statement can allow the results to be reversed similar to:
if (onOff == HIGH)
digitalWrite(led, LOW);
else
digitalWrite(led, HIGH);
Remember to use the "==" when comparing values in an if() statement. This is saying if the button is returning HIGH, set the LED to LOW, otherwise set the LED to HIGH.
This logic can be expanded to including multiple sensors, causing other alerts to occur.
Using other switch types can create more flexible monitoring. A push button requires great conformance of the switch to what is being monitored. A push button requires the item being monitored must hit the switch at the right time.
Other switch types, can allow flexibility of the orientation of the switch to the item being monitored. Lever type microswitches are the most flexible. A microswitch will only operate in a narrow region of the motion. The lever can absorb a great deal of motion.Toggle switches are good in the panel of the aircraft. Toggle switches have great tactile feel, and come in a variety of designs.
It is good to wire sensor wires to GND as much as possible. Running any source voltage (IE 12V, 5V etc) will require the wire to be fused to prevent the source and the wire from being damaged. There is a fuse or circuit breaker from the panel to all devices requiring source voltage in the aircraft. This is very important to prevent fires, low voltage and other problems in the aircraft.
What do you need next?
Saturday, August 9, 2014
OSH 2014 - no good ADS-B out solution
Last week I went to Oshkosh. It was a trip I have done before, and I really enjoy spending time there. Usually it is very reinvigorating. This year I had some personal strains, but overall it was a good time. I saw some friends, and I got to checkout some new stuff.
Garmin was there with their connected cockpit stuff. I couldn't get a good feel for the low level technology, the booth folks were pretty high level. It may be more open than I got the feeling it was. Overall it seems as long as you buy Garmin stuff you are golden.
I mostly was hoping I could find that elusive vendor, the one who gets electronics, and wants to sell a million units. Right now I think the field is ripe, and people are ready for an ADS-B solution that is open and cheap. The field is still limited by the usual suspects and their belief that avionics have to cost a good portion of my annual salary. I didn't find that vendor.
I have a strong belief that someone could build a really good UAT (or even 1090-es) ADS-B unit that would cost under $1000, that would connect to an external GPS device, since it has to have WAAS quality position indication. The device would talk NMEA and/or ARINC-828/708/429 and allow any MFD to display the ADS-B and TIS/FIS messages as well. I think the under $1000 would be the tipping point, and suddenly a majority of the GA owners would finally be signing up for these devices at the local avionics shop.
Mitre developed a prototype UAT that they believed could do everything that I am describing, and showed it at AOPA expo in 2010. It was a standalone transceiver that used an iPhone for a display. It was a full UAT capable of being certified.
Think about a smart phone. There are a bunch of teardown sites that will calculate the material cost of the devices. The costs are the CPU, the display, batteries and radios. Yes, most smart phones contain multiple radios, including WiFi, Bluetooth, LTS, HSPA, and probably GSM on multiple bands (850/900/1800/1900 MHz). There are so many radios in a smart phone, I am surprised the FAA lets 'em on a plane, but that is why the airlines want cellphones controlled a little bit. The typical smart phone costs about $150-300 in parts. There is certification, assembly, shipping and marketing to add on top of that.
I know cell phones transmit less than 1 watt, and UAT's will transmit up to about 50 watts. A well designed linear amplifier shouldn't cost more than maybe $20 in parts to get 50watts at 978MHz. It would be a few discrete components (resistors and capacitors) and probably 6 FET's.
If the bill of materials for the UAT is around $300, that doesn't justify the 5-8 times cost of the current crop of units. There may be arguments about volume and costs, that is understandable, if the price is at the high end, and the volume is not there. No marketing campaign will convince every to buy the top of the line equipment ever. If the price is in the sweet spot, the volume is there and you can amortize the fixed certification and development cost across many more units! ROI goes up, bonuses to everyone, and the stockholders are happy.
I see plenty of follow on products, including a behind the panel GPS WAAS (SBAS) receiver, that has an LAAS (GBAS) option. I see some panel mount MFDs that could be built and sold using Android in the Car type setups. Probably some VHF transceivers that might complement this stack of radios. If this system follows an open standard, such that it would mix and match with other manufacturers equipment, including IMU's and such, then the consumer wins.
Want to do it? I am willing to work with someone who think the current avionics market is a total mess, and needs significant help!
Garmin was there with their connected cockpit stuff. I couldn't get a good feel for the low level technology, the booth folks were pretty high level. It may be more open than I got the feeling it was. Overall it seems as long as you buy Garmin stuff you are golden.
I mostly was hoping I could find that elusive vendor, the one who gets electronics, and wants to sell a million units. Right now I think the field is ripe, and people are ready for an ADS-B solution that is open and cheap. The field is still limited by the usual suspects and their belief that avionics have to cost a good portion of my annual salary. I didn't find that vendor.
I have a strong belief that someone could build a really good UAT (or even 1090-es) ADS-B unit that would cost under $1000, that would connect to an external GPS device, since it has to have WAAS quality position indication. The device would talk NMEA and/or ARINC-828/708/429 and allow any MFD to display the ADS-B and TIS/FIS messages as well. I think the under $1000 would be the tipping point, and suddenly a majority of the GA owners would finally be signing up for these devices at the local avionics shop.
Mitre developed a prototype UAT that they believed could do everything that I am describing, and showed it at AOPA expo in 2010. It was a standalone transceiver that used an iPhone for a display. It was a full UAT capable of being certified.
Think about a smart phone. There are a bunch of teardown sites that will calculate the material cost of the devices. The costs are the CPU, the display, batteries and radios. Yes, most smart phones contain multiple radios, including WiFi, Bluetooth, LTS, HSPA, and probably GSM on multiple bands (850/900/1800/1900 MHz). There are so many radios in a smart phone, I am surprised the FAA lets 'em on a plane, but that is why the airlines want cellphones controlled a little bit. The typical smart phone costs about $150-300 in parts. There is certification, assembly, shipping and marketing to add on top of that.
I know cell phones transmit less than 1 watt, and UAT's will transmit up to about 50 watts. A well designed linear amplifier shouldn't cost more than maybe $20 in parts to get 50watts at 978MHz. It would be a few discrete components (resistors and capacitors) and probably 6 FET's.
If the bill of materials for the UAT is around $300, that doesn't justify the 5-8 times cost of the current crop of units. There may be arguments about volume and costs, that is understandable, if the price is at the high end, and the volume is not there. No marketing campaign will convince every to buy the top of the line equipment ever. If the price is in the sweet spot, the volume is there and you can amortize the fixed certification and development cost across many more units! ROI goes up, bonuses to everyone, and the stockholders are happy.
I see plenty of follow on products, including a behind the panel GPS WAAS (SBAS) receiver, that has an LAAS (GBAS) option. I see some panel mount MFDs that could be built and sold using Android in the Car type setups. Probably some VHF transceivers that might complement this stack of radios. If this system follows an open standard, such that it would mix and match with other manufacturers equipment, including IMU's and such, then the consumer wins.
Want to do it? I am willing to work with someone who think the current avionics market is a total mess, and needs significant help!
Labels:
$1000,
50W,
978,
Cell Phone,
iPhone,
Low Cost ADS-B,
MFD,
Mitre prototype,
UAT
Saturday, August 2, 2014
Fly By Wire
So far the Arduino posts have been pretty useless. Nothing really about airplanes or anything useful. This post is going to have some meat. It will include input and output. This will be something that could be used as a fly by wire system, but shouldn't be used for anything critical since it has no redundancy.
The real world is mostly analog. Sometimes it would be easier if it was binary (on/off) but mostly it is not quite on, or not quite off. It may seem like a big leap to go from blinking lights to reading analog inputs, but that is the great thing about Arduino. It is very easy to read analog devices.
Radio Shack sells potentiometers that will work as an analog input. There are other sources, Radio Shack is sometimes more handy. The potentiometer is really a variable resistor. A good choice is the 10K potentiometer, linear taper. Linear taper means when the wiper is moved the value will change a linear amount. For this application almost any scavenged potentiometer would work.
If one side of the resistor is connected to +5V, then the wiper can be connected to one of the analog inputs of the board. The standard Arduino library has a function:
analogRead()
that will read the analog input and convert that to a value between 0 and 1023.
A simple test will turn on the light when the potentiometer is turned past half way. Any value could be used depending on application. The setup() function will be identical to the blink sketch, since it will use the LED light as the blink sketch did. There is a new variable "pot" shortened potentiometer, set to 3, meaning analog pin 3.
The loop() function has many new concepts from the Blink sketch. There is a function variable "val" used to hold the analog value read. This function variable exists only in the loop() function, it cannot be read or set in the setup() function. It is perfect for this application, since the loop() function is the only place that will care what the last value read was, and it may change between reads. The value is read immediately in the loop() function the library function analogRead(pot). The "pot" contains the value 3, indicating analog pin 3 is to be read. The value read is compared to 511 (about half of 1023 the max value of analogRead). If the value read is greater than 511 the LED pin is set to HIGH or else the LED pin is set to LOW like in the Blink sketch.
The if() comparison allows comparing many things. The comparison operators on the Arduino library page outlines the comparisons that can be made. The most problematic one will be '=='. The single '=' means set the value, where '==' asks the question, are these the same value? We will get into more comparisons in another post. In this case the comparison checks the value read to see if it is greater than 511. If the value is less than or equal to 511, then the "else" portion of the comparison will happen.
Wiring the potentiometer to the Arduino board will require 3 wires and 3 pins. Some kits will include the potentiometer pre-wired. It is easy to solder 3 wires to the potentiometer. Using something smaller than 20 gauge wire, is preferred, but not required. The 0.1 header snap strips can be bought at most electronic supply sources, surplus stores or Radio Shack. The pins can be "snapped" off individually or in groups. The pins are inserted into the board, in the specified pins.
The potentiometer has 3 connections. The two outside connections are
either end of the resistor, and the middle is the wiper of the resistor.
If the middle (wiper) connection is plugged into analog pin 3 of the Arduino board, and one side connected to +5V and the other to one of the GND (ground pin) the above sketch should work!.
One library that is available for the Arduino is the servo library. The servo library is used to control model type airplane servos. The model airplane servos are controlled by setting a value or angle, and the arm of the servo will move to that location, and hold. The normal servos are limited to either 90 or 180 degrees of rotation.
The model airplane servos have 3 wires coming out of them. There is a power wire (usually red), a ground wire (brown or black) and a control signal. Most servos have a standard connection order, with power in the middle and ground opposite the control wire. The connectors usually are sockets like the sockets on the Arduino board, so using the wires in the kit with pins on both ends, or soldering pins on both ends of a wire will allow connecting the servo to the Arduino.
Connecting the ground wire to a GND pin on the Arduino, and the power to the +5V will give the server power it needs to turn. Connecting the signal wire to pin 10 will match the sketch.
This sketch shows something new at the top. The
#include <Servo.h>
Tells the sketch compiler to go find the servo library, and build that code into the results sent to the Arduino board. The standard Arduino library is included automatically. The Servo code may not be needed for all applications, so it is included only in the applications that need servo code to save space. the Sketch menu in the sketch editor has an "import library" selection allowing adding various libraries to an application. Including unnecessary libraries will slow loading sketches to the Arduino at a minimum, and may prevent the sketch from fitting in the memory of the Arduino.
The servo library tries to be "Object Oriented". Object oriented is a programing concept where an object knows how to operate itself. The setup() function creates the myServo object, and attaches the servo to it. For this sketch, the servo is connected to pin 10.
The loop() function reads the potentiometer as above. One new function introduced here is:
map(val, inMin, inMax, outMin, outMax)
Map is used to map one range to another range. The servo range, is from 0 degrees to 180, and that is the output position. The potentiometer range is 0 to 1023. The value input is converted from the input range, and converted to the output range. As an example, if the potentiometer is set to the mid range (about 511), the map will convert to the middle of the servo range, half way between 0 and 180 (about 90).
Wiring the servo and the potentiometer can be done. The potentiometer can be connected to the +3, and the servo must be connected to the +5V pins. Unfortunately some servos use more power than can be delivered on the USB port, so the board must be powered by a wall ward, or other external power supply to make this sketch run smoothly. Any adapter that has 12V out on the center contact, and delivers more than 1000ma (or 1A) will work great.
When this is run, the potentiometer could be hooked to a throttle knob, and the servo could be hooked to the throttle setting on a carburetor to act as a remote control for the throttle. Using something like this can eliminate complex mechanical linkages. Changing the map values could allow less movement in the throttle being translated into more movement of the servo.
This post is probably not totally clear, but as we go, I will explain more about how all this works, and ways to connect more inputs and outputs to your Arduino. I will explain more about the various voltages, and how the electricity flows through things.
If something isn't clear, please let me know.
The real world is mostly analog. Sometimes it would be easier if it was binary (on/off) but mostly it is not quite on, or not quite off. It may seem like a big leap to go from blinking lights to reading analog inputs, but that is the great thing about Arduino. It is very easy to read analog devices.

If one side of the resistor is connected to +5V, then the wiper can be connected to one of the analog inputs of the board. The standard Arduino library has a function:
analogRead()
that will read the analog input and convert that to a value between 0 and 1023.
A simple test will turn on the light when the potentiometer is turned past half way. Any value could be used depending on application. The setup() function will be identical to the blink sketch, since it will use the LED light as the blink sketch did. There is a new variable "pot" shortened potentiometer, set to 3, meaning analog pin 3.
/* Analog Demo Turn on the LED when a potentiometer is turned past half way, and turn it off when turned the other way past half way This example code is in the public domain. */ // Pin 13 has an LED connected on most Arduino boards. // give it a name: int led = 13; // Analog pin 3 will be connected to potentiometer // its name is shortened int pot = 3; // the setup routine runs once when you press reset: void setup() { // initialize the digital pin as an output. pinMode(led, OUTPUT); } // the loop routine runs over and over again forever: void loop() { int val; val = analogRead(pot); if (val > 511) { digitalWrite(led, HIGH); } else { digitalWrite(led, LOW); } }
The loop() function has many new concepts from the Blink sketch. There is a function variable "val" used to hold the analog value read. This function variable exists only in the loop() function, it cannot be read or set in the setup() function. It is perfect for this application, since the loop() function is the only place that will care what the last value read was, and it may change between reads. The value is read immediately in the loop() function the library function analogRead(pot). The "pot" contains the value 3, indicating analog pin 3 is to be read. The value read is compared to 511 (about half of 1023 the max value of analogRead). If the value read is greater than 511 the LED pin is set to HIGH or else the LED pin is set to LOW like in the Blink sketch.
The if() comparison allows comparing many things. The comparison operators on the Arduino library page outlines the comparisons that can be made. The most problematic one will be '=='. The single '=' means set the value, where '==' asks the question, are these the same value? We will get into more comparisons in another post. In this case the comparison checks the value read to see if it is greater than 511. If the value is less than or equal to 511, then the "else" portion of the comparison will happen.
Wiring the potentiometer to the Arduino board will require 3 wires and 3 pins. Some kits will include the potentiometer pre-wired. It is easy to solder 3 wires to the potentiometer. Using something smaller than 20 gauge wire, is preferred, but not required. The 0.1 header snap strips can be bought at most electronic supply sources, surplus stores or Radio Shack. The pins can be "snapped" off individually or in groups. The pins are inserted into the board, in the specified pins.
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Logical diagram of a potentiometer |
The Rest of The Story
That isn't flying anything by wire. What the above work did was create a way to put control inputs into a computer. The computer can convert those inputs to other outputs. The if/else statement could have been more complex, and allowed controlling multiple LED lights if there were more LEDs available.One library that is available for the Arduino is the servo library. The servo library is used to control model type airplane servos. The model airplane servos are controlled by setting a value or angle, and the arm of the servo will move to that location, and hold. The normal servos are limited to either 90 or 180 degrees of rotation.
The model airplane servos have 3 wires coming out of them. There is a power wire (usually red), a ground wire (brown or black) and a control signal. Most servos have a standard connection order, with power in the middle and ground opposite the control wire. The connectors usually are sockets like the sockets on the Arduino board, so using the wires in the kit with pins on both ends, or soldering pins on both ends of a wire will allow connecting the servo to the Arduino.
Connecting the ground wire to a GND pin on the Arduino, and the power to the +5V will give the server power it needs to turn. Connecting the signal wire to pin 10 will match the sketch.
/* FlyByWire Convert potentiometer position to servo position This example code is in the public domain. */ #include <Servo.h> Servo myservo; // create servo object to control a servo // a maximum of eight servo objects can be created int pos = 0; // variable to store the servo position // Pin 10 has a servo connected. // give it a name: int servo = 10; // Analog pin 3 will be connected to potentiometer // its name is shortened int pot = 3; void setup() { myservo.attach(servo); // attaches the servo on pin 10 to the servo object } void loop() { int val; val = analogRead(pot); // Read the potentiometer position pos = map(val, 0, 1023, 0, 180); // change potentionmeter range to servo range myservo.write(pos); // tell servo to go to position in variable 'pos' }
This sketch shows something new at the top. The
#include <Servo.h>
Tells the sketch compiler to go find the servo library, and build that code into the results sent to the Arduino board. The standard Arduino library is included automatically. The Servo code may not be needed for all applications, so it is included only in the applications that need servo code to save space. the Sketch menu in the sketch editor has an "import library" selection allowing adding various libraries to an application. Including unnecessary libraries will slow loading sketches to the Arduino at a minimum, and may prevent the sketch from fitting in the memory of the Arduino.
The servo library tries to be "Object Oriented". Object oriented is a programing concept where an object knows how to operate itself. The setup() function creates the myServo object, and attaches the servo to it. For this sketch, the servo is connected to pin 10.
The loop() function reads the potentiometer as above. One new function introduced here is:
map(val, inMin, inMax, outMin, outMax)
Map is used to map one range to another range. The servo range, is from 0 degrees to 180, and that is the output position. The potentiometer range is 0 to 1023. The value input is converted from the input range, and converted to the output range. As an example, if the potentiometer is set to the mid range (about 511), the map will convert to the middle of the servo range, half way between 0 and 180 (about 90).
Wiring the servo and the potentiometer can be done. The potentiometer can be connected to the +3, and the servo must be connected to the +5V pins. Unfortunately some servos use more power than can be delivered on the USB port, so the board must be powered by a wall ward, or other external power supply to make this sketch run smoothly. Any adapter that has 12V out on the center contact, and delivers more than 1000ma (or 1A) will work great.
When this is run, the potentiometer could be hooked to a throttle knob, and the servo could be hooked to the throttle setting on a carburetor to act as a remote control for the throttle. Using something like this can eliminate complex mechanical linkages. Changing the map values could allow less movement in the throttle being translated into more movement of the servo.
This post is probably not totally clear, but as we go, I will explain more about how all this works, and ways to connect more inputs and outputs to your Arduino. I will explain more about the various voltages, and how the electricity flows through things.
If something isn't clear, please let me know.
Monday, July 28, 2014
Arduino Software
This is a continuation of the Arduino for Pilots post. This post will be an introduction to writing software for the Arduino, assuming you know nothing about programming anything. If you know another language, this will be helpful to apply those principals to the Arduino. A great deal of the Arduino code is already written, in the forms of libraries, so most programming will only be using these libraries to do the things you need.
The Arduino web site has the list of libraries available. The language reference page is a fairly complete list of commands built in to the Arduino. Understanding some of the concepts may not be obvious, to someone who hasn't programmed anything before.
The blink sketch used many of the basic things that are needed to get started programming. Have a look at it again:
The characters "/*" begin a comment block, and "*/" end that comment block. All text between the "/*" and the "*/" are considered comments. Any new lines and punctuation are allowed. Comments are used in programming to add information for the person reading the code at a later date. The computer doesn't use or look at these values at all. They can be in Dutch, Italian or English, what ever is needed to make things easier for the person looking at the code.
Sometimes a programmer while writing code just wants a quick note about a particular line of code. The lines of code start on the far left, and end at the right, and are only one line long. If a line contains the characters "//" that is the start of a line comment, and end with the end of the line. These are comments for the readers of the code, and not the computer.
The first line of real program is the initial variable declaration. This line is a statement. Program statements start after a comment block, or after another statement. Statements must end with a semi-colon ";".:
int led = 13;
A variable has a type and in this case is an integer specified by the "int" characters. Integers are whole numbers, no fractions or decimal places. For the Arduino, they have a range of -32768 to 32767. For many applications integers are adequate, but if more range is needed, and no negative value are useful, specifying an "unsigned int" will allow a range of 0 to 65535. There are other variable types, and we will get into them more in a bit.
The variable has a name. For this application the name is "led". It doesn't matter what the name is, the computer will only look for this name and work with the value with that name. We can give variables meaningful names, or we can name them a, b, or c, but meaningful names will help maintain the program that is written. Names in programs must start with a letter, and may not contain any spaces or most symbols. After the first letter, there may be numbers and underscores.
The variable can be initialized when declared. For this program, the variable is initialized with 13. This variable will be used to tell the computer what pin this program will control the LED light with. The program didn't need to use a variable for this program, we could have used 13 everywhere "led" is used, but if someday the LED light was moved to another pin, all the 13's would have to be changed to the new value. Using a variable like this, if the LED was moved to another pin, only the variable "led" needs an new initial value and the program is ready to go.
The last character in the statement is the semi-colon notifying the computer that this statement is done. The carriage return/new line doesn't mean anything to the computer. The next statement could start right after the semi-colon. Using white space (indentation, and new lines) makes the program more readable.
Since the "led" variable is declared outside any functions, it is considered a global variable. A global variable is one that can be used inside any function, in this sketch. There are function private variables that are only visible inside the functions where they are declared.
The next line of real program is the function declaration:
void setup() {
This is an entry point for every program. The Arduino always runs some code. It is sort of like an operating system, allowing uploading and running programs. When a new program is started (after upload or reset), the first thing the Arduino loader runs is call the function "setup".
There can be any number of functions in a program. A function is declared with a return value, in this case "void" indicating there is no return value. Some functions may do some calculation or lookup some information and return a value. Functions can return integers and other values as well.
The next part of the function declaration is the function name. There are two functions all Arduino programs must have, "setup" and "loop". If there is a need for a calculate cubic feet function, a function can be created that has the name "CalculateCubicFeet". The names need to be spelled and capitalized properly. A function named "setup" is different than a function named "Setup". Having multiple functions with the same name, just different capitalization's can make reading the code more difficult.
A subtle part of this function declaration is the arguments section. For this function there is nothing being passed to it, so there is an empty pair of parenthesis "()". If there was a function CalculateCubicFeet, to make is flexible, there may be three arguments passed to it like:
int CalculateCubicFeet(int x, int y, int z)
where the three values passed to the function are x,y and z, each and integer. Arguments passed to the function are only visible inside that function. The argument x in CalculateCubicFeet cannot be used in the setup function.
The last bit of the setup function declaration is the "{". The "{" is the start of commands that will be done when this function is called. The other "}" is the last line of the function, and means that is the end of the function. This line doesn't have to be on the same line as the name and the open and close parenthesis but usually is.
Inside the setup function, since it is past the "{" is a library function call "pinMode". Pin mode takes two arguments, the pin to set the mode of and the direction the pin will be when the program starts. The Arduino language reference page has a link to the function "pinMode". The language reference page will describe the function in detail, and offer some examples. This is the same for all built in functions.
There are some built in constants and variables in the Arduino library. Constants are named values that don't change. Variables are named values that may change during the execution of the program. One of the constants that the "pinMode" function uses is "OUTPUT". Writing a program using values other than the constants defined is discouraged, since the program may stop working when used on another computer.
The setup function does one thing, it sets pin 13 (led) to be an output pin. Instead of specifying 13, the program uses the variable "led" which is set to the value 13. Being an output pin means the values are set on those pins. If a switch were connected to pin 5, and there was a desire to read that pin, then using the pinMode function, pin 5 could be set as input:
pinMode(5,INPUT)
Once everything in the setup function is complete, the program will jump back and let the Arduino system have control again. The Arduino system will do whatever housekeeping it needs to and then immediately call the "loop" function.
The loop function is declared almost identically to the setup function. There are no return variables, so the void type is specified. The name happens to be "loop", and that is necessary so the Arduino system knows where to go next. There are no arguments to the function, so there are empty parentheses. The real work starts after the "{".
The first library function call is the "digitalWrite" function call. The digitalWrite function will set the value on one of the pins. There are two arguments to digitalWrite, the pin, and the value. All the digital pins only care about two values, the constants "HIGH" and "LOW". High means that when measured against the ground pin, the value on the pin specified will be about 3 volts. Low means 0 volts when compared to the ground pin.
For this program, pin 13 will be set to the HIGH value to turn the light on. Again, instead of specifying 13, the program uses the variable "led" which contains the value 13.
The next library function call is "delay". The delay function takes one argument, the amount of time to wait in milliseconds. The current program just stops for that much time. The Arduino system is still doing it's thing, but the program written waits that many milliseconds. A programmer can create a variable so the 1000 would have a name, something line "oneSecond" would be good, but it isn't necessary.
The next two lines are like the first two in this function. Calling the library functions digitalWrite and delay are used to turn the LED off and to wait before exiting this function.
Once the function hits the "}", it will return control to the Arduino system. The Arduino system will take care of any housekeeping it needs, then call the loop function again. This process will repeat until the system is powered off.
These introduction posts are long, and I hope the help make the Arduino system understandable. In subsequent posts, there will be more meat regarding doing airplane stuff with and Arduino, but without this basic understanding, any other posts may not be useful. Post any questions or subject area anyone may need help with, and I will try to get more help out there.
The Arduino web site has the list of libraries available. The language reference page is a fairly complete list of commands built in to the Arduino. Understanding some of the concepts may not be obvious, to someone who hasn't programmed anything before.
The blink sketch used many of the basic things that are needed to get started programming. Have a look at it again:
/* Blink Turns on an LED on for one second, then off for one second, repeatedly. This example code is in the public domain. */ // Pin 13 has an LED connected on most Arduino boards. // give it a name: int led = 13; // the setup routine runs once when you press reset: void setup() { // initialize the digital pin as an output. pinMode(led, OUTPUT); } // the loop routine runs over and over again forever: void loop() { digitalWrite(led, HIGH); // turn the LED on (HIGH is the voltage level) delay(1000); // wait for a second digitalWrite(led, LOW); // turn the LED off by making the voltage LOW delay(1000); // wait for a second }
The characters "/*" begin a comment block, and "*/" end that comment block. All text between the "/*" and the "*/" are considered comments. Any new lines and punctuation are allowed. Comments are used in programming to add information for the person reading the code at a later date. The computer doesn't use or look at these values at all. They can be in Dutch, Italian or English, what ever is needed to make things easier for the person looking at the code.
Sometimes a programmer while writing code just wants a quick note about a particular line of code. The lines of code start on the far left, and end at the right, and are only one line long. If a line contains the characters "//" that is the start of a line comment, and end with the end of the line. These are comments for the readers of the code, and not the computer.
The first line of real program is the initial variable declaration. This line is a statement. Program statements start after a comment block, or after another statement. Statements must end with a semi-colon ";".:
int led = 13;
A variable has a type and in this case is an integer specified by the "int" characters. Integers are whole numbers, no fractions or decimal places. For the Arduino, they have a range of -32768 to 32767. For many applications integers are adequate, but if more range is needed, and no negative value are useful, specifying an "unsigned int" will allow a range of 0 to 65535. There are other variable types, and we will get into them more in a bit.
The variable has a name. For this application the name is "led". It doesn't matter what the name is, the computer will only look for this name and work with the value with that name. We can give variables meaningful names, or we can name them a, b, or c, but meaningful names will help maintain the program that is written. Names in programs must start with a letter, and may not contain any spaces or most symbols. After the first letter, there may be numbers and underscores.
The variable can be initialized when declared. For this program, the variable is initialized with 13. This variable will be used to tell the computer what pin this program will control the LED light with. The program didn't need to use a variable for this program, we could have used 13 everywhere "led" is used, but if someday the LED light was moved to another pin, all the 13's would have to be changed to the new value. Using a variable like this, if the LED was moved to another pin, only the variable "led" needs an new initial value and the program is ready to go.
The last character in the statement is the semi-colon notifying the computer that this statement is done. The carriage return/new line doesn't mean anything to the computer. The next statement could start right after the semi-colon. Using white space (indentation, and new lines) makes the program more readable.
Since the "led" variable is declared outside any functions, it is considered a global variable. A global variable is one that can be used inside any function, in this sketch. There are function private variables that are only visible inside the functions where they are declared.
The next line of real program is the function declaration:
void setup() {
This is an entry point for every program. The Arduino always runs some code. It is sort of like an operating system, allowing uploading and running programs. When a new program is started (after upload or reset), the first thing the Arduino loader runs is call the function "setup".
There can be any number of functions in a program. A function is declared with a return value, in this case "void" indicating there is no return value. Some functions may do some calculation or lookup some information and return a value. Functions can return integers and other values as well.
The next part of the function declaration is the function name. There are two functions all Arduino programs must have, "setup" and "loop". If there is a need for a calculate cubic feet function, a function can be created that has the name "CalculateCubicFeet". The names need to be spelled and capitalized properly. A function named "setup" is different than a function named "Setup". Having multiple functions with the same name, just different capitalization's can make reading the code more difficult.
A subtle part of this function declaration is the arguments section. For this function there is nothing being passed to it, so there is an empty pair of parenthesis "()". If there was a function CalculateCubicFeet, to make is flexible, there may be three arguments passed to it like:
int CalculateCubicFeet(int x, int y, int z)
where the three values passed to the function are x,y and z, each and integer. Arguments passed to the function are only visible inside that function. The argument x in CalculateCubicFeet cannot be used in the setup function.
The last bit of the setup function declaration is the "{". The "{" is the start of commands that will be done when this function is called. The other "}" is the last line of the function, and means that is the end of the function. This line doesn't have to be on the same line as the name and the open and close parenthesis but usually is.
Inside the setup function, since it is past the "{" is a library function call "pinMode". Pin mode takes two arguments, the pin to set the mode of and the direction the pin will be when the program starts. The Arduino language reference page has a link to the function "pinMode". The language reference page will describe the function in detail, and offer some examples. This is the same for all built in functions.
There are some built in constants and variables in the Arduino library. Constants are named values that don't change. Variables are named values that may change during the execution of the program. One of the constants that the "pinMode" function uses is "OUTPUT". Writing a program using values other than the constants defined is discouraged, since the program may stop working when used on another computer.
The setup function does one thing, it sets pin 13 (led) to be an output pin. Instead of specifying 13, the program uses the variable "led" which is set to the value 13. Being an output pin means the values are set on those pins. If a switch were connected to pin 5, and there was a desire to read that pin, then using the pinMode function, pin 5 could be set as input:
pinMode(5,INPUT)
Once everything in the setup function is complete, the program will jump back and let the Arduino system have control again. The Arduino system will do whatever housekeeping it needs to and then immediately call the "loop" function.
The loop function is declared almost identically to the setup function. There are no return variables, so the void type is specified. The name happens to be "loop", and that is necessary so the Arduino system knows where to go next. There are no arguments to the function, so there are empty parentheses. The real work starts after the "{".
The first library function call is the "digitalWrite" function call. The digitalWrite function will set the value on one of the pins. There are two arguments to digitalWrite, the pin, and the value. All the digital pins only care about two values, the constants "HIGH" and "LOW". High means that when measured against the ground pin, the value on the pin specified will be about 3 volts. Low means 0 volts when compared to the ground pin.
For this program, pin 13 will be set to the HIGH value to turn the light on. Again, instead of specifying 13, the program uses the variable "led" which contains the value 13.
The next library function call is "delay". The delay function takes one argument, the amount of time to wait in milliseconds. The current program just stops for that much time. The Arduino system is still doing it's thing, but the program written waits that many milliseconds. A programmer can create a variable so the 1000 would have a name, something line "oneSecond" would be good, but it isn't necessary.
The next two lines are like the first two in this function. Calling the library functions digitalWrite and delay are used to turn the LED off and to wait before exiting this function.
Once the function hits the "}", it will return control to the Arduino system. The Arduino system will take care of any housekeeping it needs, then call the loop function again. This process will repeat until the system is powered off.
These introduction posts are long, and I hope the help make the Arduino system understandable. In subsequent posts, there will be more meat regarding doing airplane stuff with and Arduino, but without this basic understanding, any other posts may not be useful. Post any questions or subject area anyone may need help with, and I will try to get more help out there.
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